I cooked at the James Beard House again last Saturday night and am only now getting to write about it. The last couple of weeks at work have been extremely busy, and while rewarding they have taken a toll on my writing and cooking.
Initially I approached last Saturday night's volunteering effect reluctantly. Saturday was on the verge of being warm, and with my shift starting at around 4pm I felt that my day would be totally wasted. Any regrets I had for volunteering vanished as soon as I stepped into the kicthen and started helping out. Cooking is definitely my passion.
I introduced myself to the guest chef, A.J. Voytko, his 22 year old sous chef Anthony, Rory (a friend of theirs and chef from Alain Ducasse) and Susie, another volunteer. With introductions out of the way we were off. 95 people were coming in less than 3 hours and there was much to do.
AJ described his menu as good food prepared simply. The menu itself was simple but AJ's attention was certainly in the details. For example, a dash of wasabi in the oysters, the shredded apple on the tuna, the dates under the lamb. While all of it was solid, there were some shining examples of his style.
I was blown away by the foie gras sandwich. Luscious foie gras mixed with stewed strawberries served on toasted challah. The three way sunflower salad was lifted out of ordinary by adding truffle oil to the vinaigrette. The three way reference made because the salad had sunflower root (sunchoke thinly sliced on a mandolin), sunflower shoots and sunflower seeds. The spicy lamb was aided by the jus and the star of the dessert medley was the goat cheese mousse topped with a stewed blood orange.
AJ definitely knows what he is doing and the title of rising star bestowed by the James Beard House is appropriate. But I am quickly realizing that the executive chef is nothing without his second in command, the sous chef. Anthony was amazing. He held the night together by finishing most of the dishes and passing them off to us for plating. At which point he moved on to the next course. His demi-glace for the spiced lamb was outstanding. It was rich red with an intensely complex structure attainable by only expert sauciers.
Hor'dourves
Oysters with Wasabi and Yuzu
Marinated Ahi with "Mint Family" and Green Apple
Foie Gras Sandwich
- Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs 1998
Simply Cured Salmon with Salad of Sunflower Three-Way, Lemon-Truffle Vinaigrette, and Crème Fraîche
- Foxen Viognier 2001
California Halibut with Five Onion Purée, Caramelized Parsnip, and Brussels Sprouts
- Honig Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2001
Duck Two Ways with Fava Bean—Pistachio Baklava, Morels, and Red Wine Reduction
- Presidio Szasz Pinot Noir 1998
Four-Spice Crusted Lamb Loin with Harissa Gnocchi, Celery Root, Medjool Date, and Lamb Jus
- Gregory Graham Syrah 2000
One Phenomenal Study of Caramel
- Ferrand 10-Year-Old Ambre Cognac
Wow! So fascinating and exciting...thank you for sharing it. Did you find the pace better this time around or is it still very hectic?
Posted by: Deb on March 22, 2003 01:48 PMIt definitely seemed less hectic this time around, especially since I had a better sense of how the kitchen worked. I also think that the personality of the chef and complexity of the menu plays a big part in determining how chaotic things can get.
My biggest problem is still trying to find a bloody spoon to taste things and a spatula to use in a saute pan! Maybe next time I will get a chance to find these before the shift starts.
Posted by: Domenic on March 22, 2003 07:46 PMDo they allow you to bring your own spatula and spoon? I suppose that sounds ridiculous and would probably be hard to keep track of but it seems like a solution to me, although I'm speaking purely out of ignorance of the way things work in a professional kitchen.
I got the feeling from reading this post that the pace had been a bit easier, more relaxed this time around...I think you're right on the money about the personality of the chef being a big factor.
Thanks for posting this...I'm quite enjoying living vicariously through your volunteer experience.
Posted by: Deb on March 23, 2003 12:25 PMI would like to say that it too was and exciting night and all the help was greatly appreciated. Thanks Dom!
Posted by: Aj on April 29, 2003 12:04 AM